Mar 102012
 

One of the hardest things about taking a wine class is not letting the wine dull your senses.  Well, that and learning how to recall a certain taste or smell from a previous class. What I’ve definitely learned is that to be able to do the second, you must do the first.

In the second class of Wine Essentials, we further explored the senses of the tongue and how different wines appear to those senses.  We tasted how acidity can be present in red wines and not just in whites (in which I’d only been able to identify acidity previously), like in a young Beaujolais hinting at sour strawberries. We also discovered how you can dip the very tip of your tongue in wine to check for residual sugars.

We also looked at the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions in France and drilled down into how wines are classified in those regions and presented on a label.  Because the French have such pride of terroir, and thus tie quality in wine to a sense of place, it’s often the case that the more specific a label is, the higher the quality of wine.  For example, a Vin de Table or Vin de France is typically a cheap wine made from grapes from no particular region. The label doesn’t specify anything but country of origin. However, a Burgundy wine that is believed to be worth bragging about will likely indicate the country, then region, sub-region, village, vineyard, and finally maker.

Among my favorite wines we tasted this class were Lillet Blond (a fortified wine I plan to revisit here), Louis Jadot Meursault Genevrières Premier Cru 2007, Pierre Gelin Fixin 1er Cru Clos Napoleon 2008, Rustenberg ‘John X Merriman’ Stellenbosch 2007, and Chateau Guiraud 1er Grand Cru Classé Sauternes 2005.  I thought the Stellenbosch wine was particularly interesting. Maybe I’ve just never had the opportunity to sit down with red wines and compare their virtues under the guidance of an expert, but I’ve never noticed tasting a wine that so clearly tasted of green peppers and jalapeno.  And a red wine at that!

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Mar 012012
 

I really love it when I have a glass of wine and it just sticks with me for one reason or another. I’m not convinced that it’s always the wine itself, but rather a magical combination of maybe the person you’re with, the person who served it to you, your mood when you tasted it or the setting. There’s the Tokaji wine I tried at Restaurant Daniel on my first wedding anniversary, the Chinon I first had at Applewood in Brooklyn, or my first sip of Lambrusco with good friends in our shared apartment years ago.

So, I decided to take a class to help me learn which wines are more likely to stick with me and why. I signed up for Wine Essentials, a six week class designed to explore many different varietals and regions. Learning about wine is an ongoing process, but revisiting the basics is the best way to start.

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To understand why different wines have different qualities, we talked about the wine making process, fermentation, ageing, bottling, and wine history, and we ended by tasting nine very different wines.  We covered a lot in two hours and it just proved how much there is to know.  For example, climate is obviously a big factor in the qualities of a wine.  It is ideal that the grapes remain on the vine for as long as possible so that the flavors have time to fully develop. If it’s too cold, then the growing season is cut short and you get grapes that are low in fruit flavors, higher in acidity, and low in sugar.  But if a climate is too warm, the grapes ripen too quickly and are often low in acidity and high in sugar.  Therefore, when the grapes are harvested and how the season fared can dictate the style of wine the winemaker will pursue.

Another good trick we learned was how to use color as an indicator of age. White wines will go from green to yellow to gold to brown as they age.  Red wines go from purple to red to brick to brown. Both red and white wines will transition from bright and sparkly to dull.

My favorite wines that first night were the Trimbach ‘Reserve Personnelle’ Pinot Gris 2001, J.Vidal-Fleury Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2008, and Chateau Greysac Cru Bourgeois Medoc 2006.  The Muscat was a deliciously sweet wine that smelled of peaches, pear and apricot and hinted at honey in the mouth.

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It’s been quite some time since I last posted here on Tender Is the Bite and I figured what better time to kick-start things than at the New Year.  I’m not one for resolutions, those are typically things that you should’ve been thinking about all year long anyway, but I do intend to get back to regular posting.  So, to get things started, I would like to share the breakfast I made this morning to welcome in 2011.

The Hubs has been dying to make sausage at home and since I somehow coerced him into some nesting projects at home, I knew rewarding the guy with homemade sausage was the right thing to do.  I found a simple recipe in the James Beard Award winning book, Sausage: Recipes for Making and Cooking with Homemade Sausage by Victoria Wise and used that as the starting point.  I also decided pancakes should accompany the sausage but I’m not a huge fan of the often bland, dense cakes that seem to me just vehicles for butter and syrup, so I searched for something lighter and more interesting.  I found a recipe that incorporates both yogurt and cottage cheese to result in a cake that is light, airy and unbelievably moist.

…and a Happy Birthday to Brad!

Breakfast Sausage
adapted from Victoria Wise

1 lb pork shoulder, cut into strips
2 oz. pork belly, cut into strips
3/4 tsp dried sage
1/2 tsp dried thyme
1/2 tsp dried marjoram
scant 1/4 tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp black pepper
1/8 tsp cayenne
2 tsp salt, or to taste

Grind your pork shoulder and belly, separately, using the coarse grinding plate.  Run the pork shoulder through the machine again using the fine grinding plate.  Combine all ingredients in a bowl and knead until thoroughly blended.  Cook a small sample to test for seasoning, add additional salt if necessary.  Sausage can be made the previous night and refrigerated before cooking if desired.

Yogurt and Cottage Cheese Pancakes
adapted from the NYTimes

1 cup cottage cheese
1 cup full fat plain yogurt
3 eggs, separated
1/2 tsp baking soda
1 cup flour
dash salt
1 Tbsp sugar
2 Tbsp lemon juice
2 tsp grated lemon zest
butter, as needed

Beat together the cottage cheese, yogurt and egg yolks.  Combine the baking soda, flour, salt and sugar.  Beat egg whites until stiff, but not dry.  Stir flour mixture into cottage cheese mixture, blending well but not beating.  Stir in lemon juice and zest, then gently fold in beaten egg whites being sure that they remain somewhat distinct in the batter.

Heat a griddle over medium-low heat.  Add butter and coat the surface.  When hot, add the batter by the heaping tablespoon, making sure to include some egg white in each spoonful.  Cook until lightly browned on one side, then flip to cook other side.  Serve immediately.

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I’ve just returned from a week and a half long trip to eastern France, where my family was celebrating the marriage of my sister to her sweetheart, a Frenchman from Montbeliard.  A few months ago, when they first got engaged, I paid homage to the good news the best way I knew how – through food.  I wanted to learn more about the culture and heritage of where he grew up, so I researched the cuisine of the Franche-Comté region and decided to make Croûte aux Morilles here on Tender Is the Bite.

For Project Food Blog Challenge #7, the remaining 48 bloggers were tasked with channeling their inner Julia Child by recreating on film one of their favorite dishes.  Since the deadline for this challenge fell right after I returned from my trip, it seemed obvious that I should make Croûte aux Morilles again, while in France.  Hopefully I’ve made both Julia Child and the newlyweds proud.

Before getting on to showtime, I just wanted to say thank you to everyone whose votes have helped me get this far into the competition.  I wouldn’t be here without your support, and it’s truly appreciated.  If you like the video, please click here to vote for me in this round.

Bon appetit!

Initially I was having troulbe getting the YouTube video to load, so just in case here is another link (though harder to view): Croute aux Morilles by Tender Is the Bite

Croûte aux morilles
serves 4, as a starter

1 oz. dried morels
1 Tbsp butter
3 oz. cremini mushrooms, or similar (I used porcini)
8 slices of baguette
1/2 cup creme fraiche
4 oz. Comte cheese, grated
chives, minced
salt & pepper

Cover the morels with hot water and let sit for 30 minutes.  Drain the mushrooms and rinse with cold water.  Reserve the soaking liquid for another use.  Rinse the mushrooms again thoroughly to make sure you’ve removed any grit.  Meanwhile, preheat the broiler.

In a medium skillet, melt the butter over medium heat.  Add the morels and cremini and cook until they have wilted, several minutes.

Place the bread on a sheetpan and toast on both sides under the broiler.  Do not overcook.

Add the creme fraiche to the skillet and increase the heat to medium-high.  Cook several minutes, until the creme fraiche has reduced by about 1/3.  Add the grated cheese and cook, stirring constantly, just until the cheese is incorporated into the mixture.  Season to taste, with salt and pepper.

Spread the mushroom and cheese mixture over each piece of toast, sprinkle with the minced chives and broil until bubbling.  Serve immediately.

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